Penguins, Pandas and Blue-Footed Boobies
Read about 3 of my favorite trips from 2023 - The Antarctic peninsula and the Weddle Sea; my first explorations of mainland China; and a very special sailing in the Galapagos Islands—selected by my 12-year-old grandson for our one-on-one trip together.
Looking back at travels in 2023, three memorable journeys will remain etched in my mind and my heart. A second birthday celebration in the magical wilds of the Antarctic peninsula and the Weddle Sea, my first explorations of mainland China—hosted magnificently by our local DMC Wild China, and a very special sailing in the Galapagos Islands—selected by my 12-year-old grandson for our one-on-one trip together.
Antarctica
I have written earlier of my complete infatuation with voyages to Antarctica that highlight interactions with diverse wildlife and other-worldly landscapes. This recent voyage was on one of the Aurora Expeditions purpose-designed vessels, the Greg Mortimer. My experiences onboard reinforced several important considerations to make, if one is contemplating travel to Earth’s Seventh Continent.
In spite of the logistics of getting there, it is worth every effort to prioritize this destination at least once in a lifetime. This icy kingdom will capture your spirit!
Choose to travel with a vetted operator who employs a team of naturalists that will bring understanding and appreciation about the creatures, the geology, the glaciers and history that will add so much value to the experience.
If possible, choose a ship that holds only 100-200 guests—the smaller the better. Smaller ships mean more time in zodiacs, on hikes, more access to close-up encounters, and the ability to change course to maximize weather conditions that create more opportunities for exploration.
To fly or not to fly? I am referring to navigation of the Drake Passage, a notoriously rough body of water that lies between the tip of South America and the White Continent. Many operators now offer guests a choice based on the itinerary selected. The advantage of flying is twofold. Cut off two long seadays for those who want to maximize their time in the destination and to avoid the possibility of seasickness, if one is prone to that condition. However, there is also one significant drawback with this choice. The airstrip on the Antarctic Peninsula must not have too much ice on the runway and poor visibility can also become a factor. If these conditions continue for at least three consecutive days, your expedition will likely be postponed.
Most of the newest expedition ships come with all the creature comforts cruisers now expect—lovely cabins, many with balconies, excellent dining, spas, libraries and an ongoing series of excellent lectures. Of course, much of the excitement occurs during adventures off the ship—in zodiacs, on hikes, in kayaks, snorkeling, and overnight camping, to name a few popular activities.
If time and budget allow plan to add Patagonia and, specifically, a few amazing days in Torres del Paine to any Antarctica voyage.
China
China is a massive country and it is difficult to capture all of it on a single trip. Depending on your interests and passions, you may enjoy modern cosmopolitan cities, the Yangtze River with the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xian, World Wonders like the Great Wall, and the sprawling foothills of the Himalayas with beautiful UNESCO World Heritage villages. These are populated by a vast group of indigenous people that still celebrate much of the ancient beliefs and culture passed down by their ancestors.
Choices regarding sights and cuisine are truly as varied as this large destination is. One reason I choose to visit China was to see the famous pandas. With Wild China, we not only saw them, but we served as keepers for a day—preparing and providing their food and, yes, cleaning up their enclosures. These creatures are genuinely local celebrities and are incredibly well-cared for from infancy into old age. They are truly adorable!
The Galapagos Islands and Multi Gen travel
I was fortunate to visit the Galapagos Islands years ago, but I was thrilled when my grandson selected the destination for his special trip. Like Antarctica, this island chain represents a very unique ecosystem with a vast portfolio of wildlife. Following African safaris and travels to our polar regions, this destination is perfect for those with a passion for the natural world.
My grandson has inherently grown up with a natural fascination for creatures, both wild and domesticated. I am so filled with joy as I witness his keen interest in the animal kingdom. Seeing the Galapagos a second time was a highlight for me. But even more special was seeing it through his eyes! I am never happier than when I am traveling with those I love. It makes every experience richer and more meaningful, and it is truly the key to creating and building ongoing relationships. Not to mention a kinder and more understanding world.
Majestic Wonders in Spitsbergen, Norway
I was able to tick off another bucket list item by visiting the islands of Svalbard—an archipelago under the jurisdiction of Norway that sits above the Arctic Circle in northern Atlantic waters, sailing aboard Quark Expeditions.
I continue to be enchanted by the remote icy kingdoms that cover our southern and northern poles. Finally, I was able to tick off another bucket list item by visiting the islands of Svalbard—an archipelago under the jurisdiction of Norway that sits above the Arctic Circle in northern Atlantic waters. Highlighting this chain is the island of Spitsbergen, a paradise of icy glaciers and fjords where a small human population coexists with abundant wildlife. Here in the vast open expanse of sea ice, tundra and jagged mountain peaks, the premier species, the magnificent polar bears, rule supreme. They are joined by reindeer, arctic foxes and diverse populations of birdlife and marine mammals. All extraordinary, but it is truly the expectation of seeing polar bears in their natural environment that draws travelers to Spitsbergen.
To visit this very special corner of the planet, I was a guest privileged to sail on Quark Expeditions Ultramarine—a new state of the art vessel designed to offer passengers intimate interactions in polar worlds. With only 199 guests and 20 zodiacs that enter the water in lightening speed, there are ample opportunities for wonderful experiences off the ship and no one misses anything! Whether by foot, zodiac or kayak, Quark’s dedicated team of naturalists serve as hosts and guides, introducing the guests to creatures who inhabit this unique ecosystem. It is a marvel how they can survive and thrive in a world of such harsh conditions. Seeing them in action in the wild is always unforgettable as are the landscapes that stun and impress us with pristine natural beauty. In these moments, we are touched by the purity of this ecosystem which reflects the timelessness and the majesty of creation that dwarves and transcends us.
Back onboard after peeling off boots and jackets, we enjoy lovely evenings featuring fine food and drink and lectures describing the day’s highlights and planning the adventures to follow in the morning. With wildlife there are no guarantees—perhaps not necessarily what was expected but always wonderful surprises that dazzle and delight. As the market for expedition cruising expands and stories spread of the magic they deliver, I expect a number of luxury cruisers will be drawn to this trend where creature comforts and wild creatures combine to produce life-changing memories.
In awe of Rwanda's Mountain Gorillas
These extraordinary creatures are not considered part of the famed Big Five which headline a traditional African safari. But they are iconic nonetheless and deserve focused attention from lovers of nature and wildlife. Read about my recent trip to Rwanda to visit these majestic creatures.
These extraordinary creatures are not considered part of the famed Big Five which headline a traditional African safari. But they are iconic nonetheless and deserve focused attention from lovers of nature and wildlife. They inhabit a small corner of the continent where the Virunga Mountains span the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo which means you must expend an additional amount of time and resources to see them. But the energy and effort are well worth the investment. In the dense forests of this volcanic mountain chain live the Mountain Gorillas made famous worldwide by Dian Fossey. Without her presence and advocacy, we may not have had the opportunity to know these primates as we do today. The honor of spending time with them will long remain a highlight, not only because they are magnificent beings in their own right, but also because of the awe they inspire as they touch us with their family bonds and behaviors that reflect a distant past for our human community.
Like many, I had a journey scheduled to Rwanda and Zambia that was disrupted by the Covid epidemic that swept the globe in 2020. With the support of an excellent safari operator, I was able to scramble to rebook travels a year later in 2021. With fingers crossed and a patchwork of Covid protocols and testing along the way, the trip finally came to life. While the gorilla treks were the primary focus, a wonderful safari in South Luangwa, Zambia and a visit to the Lilayi Elephant Orphanage added fabulous dimensions to the overall safari experience. Time with the Golden Monkeys in Rwanda was also great fun as was a day in the little know game reserve, Akagera National Park.
I had been in Zambia years ago, primarily to see Victoria Falls. I chose to return here as Zambia still falls in the shadows of more popular safari destinations in Southern Africa. I personally prefer more simple and authentic surroundings that create very intimate connections to the flora and fauna. Clearly, Zambia exceeded expectations. Rwanda and its Mountain Gorillas checked all the buttons for a bucket list journey. Memories and photos that will last a lifetime.
Golden monkeys from Rwanda, walking with the orphaned baby elephants and several favorites from South Luangwa National Park, Zambia.
Kenya Past & Present - Always Awesome
I have had the extreme pleasure of experiencing an African safari six times in over a forty-year span in both Eastern and Southern African destinations. Take a look at the destination through the lens of camera both in 1977 and again in 2020!
To enter the world of an African safari is to take a step into a primal and magical realm. Here majestic creatures both great and small and all wildly diverse have survived for millennia—each generation providing a link to an ancient past they all share. There are few places on earth that provide a glimpse into ecosystems such as this where the visitor is privileged to witness a space that seems both timeless and unchanged—a rarity in our modern civilization.
Of course, the camps and lodges that dot the landscape offer luxury and comforts unknown in earlier times—but in the end, these are not the primary reasons many adventurers immerse themselves here. Rather it is to experience a connection to the natural world that pulses with the flow of life—the drama between prey and predator, birth and death, and the profound beauty displayed by each individual in its efforts to survive and thrive while playing a small role in a much larger picture.
I have had the extreme pleasure of experiencing an African safari six times in over a forty-year span in both Eastern and Southern African destinations. My first was a honeymoon in Kenya—and I finally returned to this spectacular country in October 2020—exactly 43 years later to the date. The sprawl of Nairobi was greater and the traffic much busier but upon arrival into the world-famous parks and reserves in Kenya, I was grateful to find that things seemed much the same.
Photography on safari has changed dramatically over the passing decades. Using Kodak film was always challenging as the number of photos you could take on each roll was limited. You were not able to see your results until your film was processed upon your return home which offered a combination of joy and angst when the pictures were finally delivered! Today, you can peruse photos during the safari and get confirmation that you are getting the pictures you expected. Either way, what you experience on safari is a combination of luck and the expertise of your driver guide. Years later the animals still pose in similar manner—perhaps a baby elephant seen in 1977 is now one of the magnificent matriarchs leading her own family and providing wisdom for a new generation—the famous cycle of life!
Please enjoy some photos taken on safari in Kenya with film using Kodak slides in 1977 contrasted with digital format in 2020.
Kenya in 1977
Kenya in 2020
The magic of Antarctica aboard Seabourn Quest
There are only a handful of destinations on the planet that offer immersion into a pristine natural environment—rare ones like our polar regions still remaining that can stir the human soul and kindle distant memories connecting us to the greater web of life.
“A journey is an adventure with an unknown outcome.”
A naturalist on the Seabourn Quest made this pronouncement at an early lecture given on my recent Antarctica voyage. Certainly those of us poised to embark on our six day experience in this wild white continent were filled with anticipation and excitement of what would unfold for us collectively and individually in the days ahead. In the end Antarctica did not disappoint and for many it exceeded our highest expectations.
There are only a handful of destinations on the planet that offer immersion into a pristine natural environment—rare ones like our polar regions still remaining that can stir the human soul and kindle distant memories connecting us to the greater web of life. Call it awe or call it wonder, the emotional power is life-altering. To step into that space creates a natural sense of intoxication that erases any awareness of past or future cares. There remains only the intense captivation of each new moment.
Following several very uneventful days crossing the Drake Passage, we awoke our first morning in Antarctica to a still and quiet world. To draw the stateroom curtains and step onto our veranda was like entering another dimension. The first golden light of the day had exposed a landscape of rugged snowy peaks, icebergs and glaciers—the ocean reflecting like glass. As peaceful a scene as it appeared, I quickly understood the world that surrounded us was pulsing with energy and the rhythms of abundant life. Moments later, seabirds, penguins and several minke whales appeared. Life seen, yet so much more unseen but vibrantly alive and surrounding us. This spectacular destination is like no other on earth!
I will forever be touched by the memories of this journey. White water rafting and horseback riding in Chile were memorable in their own right. Chile, by the way, offers its own eye-popping brand of scenery and has been named the #1 place to visit in 2019 by Lonely Planet. In the final analysis, I am grateful that I choose to explore Antarctica on the Seabourn Quest—a 21-day voyage from Santiago to Buenos Aires. As a cruise experience, there is none finer than the luxury, service, accommodation and dining offered on a Seabourn vessel. The crew---from the officers on down could not have been more caring or attentive. To bring authenticity to the expedition side of the sailing, Seabourn added a team of eighteen naturalists with varied areas of expertise to enrich the experience both on and off the ship.
Thanks to Seabourn, I have kayaked in Antarctic waters, wandered through multiple penguin rookeries and approached other marine life on land and by zodiac. A late afternoon whale watch was a highlight with countless humpback whales surrounding us and we were joined by a very special group of them who actually swam alongside the ship for a few minutes before disappearing with a final deep dive. The captain further delighted us by placing the bow of the Quest before a gigantic iceberg. He next proceeded to circle a second one. As twilight faded, the night skies offered a magic of their own…a dark screen filled with dancing white snowflakes.
We were also blessed by several cloudless nights that provided a different kind of magic…a vast black canvas glistening with the sparkle of countless stars. Best of all, a dazzling display of the Milky Way—always there but so often hidden by the light pollution of our urban way of life. Clearly, I am a city girl at heart born and raised in Los Angeles and now with children and grandchildren all choosing to remain in Southern California. But throughout my life I have been drawn to pathways that have led me to hidden and remote corners of the globe. I understand how much these escapes have bonded me to the wild natural spaces and diverse creatures that share our world. It is always a privilege to spend time in the overwhelming presence of nature and revel in the balm and inspiration it provides.
I am convinced that we have a better perception of ourselves, our purpose and our priorities when we are lucky enough to be captured by moments of wonder and awe. Travel to the right destination definitely expands and accelerates these moments—the catch is to bring awareness of them back with you and be open to discovering them again wherever you are. I walk my neighborhood streets after dark with my dog and always seek a glimmer of the Milky Way. While I don’t often see it, I am at peace knowing that it does exist and that I have witnessed it. But I yearn for a clearer view again somewhere, some time soon!
The Shared Memories of Family Travel
Traveling to the far reaches of the globe offers some of the most powerful and meaningful experiences of a lifetime. But, truthfully, at day’s end many of the most enriching moments we enjoy are those spent in the company of people we most love.
Traveling to the far reaches of the globe offers some of the most powerful and meaningful experiences of a lifetime. But, truthfully, at day’s end many of the most enriching moments we enjoy are those spent in the company of people we most love. In the best of circumstances, family members top this list. It is no surprise that interest in family and multi-generation travel has been exploding in recent years as has the demand and opportunities.
My personal investment in family vacations paid handsome rewards in the feedback of my own children, now long grown. In passing, I had asked each of them to reflect upon favorite childhood memories. Neither responded with a specific holiday or birthday celebration, but rather with recollections of family trips we had taken to Hawaii, Alaska, ski trips, Costa Rica and Africa among our best. This pattern of enjoying family time on the road has now enveloped a new generation that includes my three grandchildren.
The camaraderie of shared memories is extraordinary and the bonds created by focusing on one another in the midst of fun and discovery are invaluable. I cannot encourage you enough to gather those you love and consider how and where you best envision your family members at relaxation and at play. The possibilities are countless but the commitment of time and energy could not be more wisely spent. Unforgettable images and heartfelt emotions imprinted on each one. That intangible link that draws us near and keeps us close to one another. There is nothing more special in the world…
It would be my honor to help you create lasting memories with your own family through travel. Get in touch to discuss your needs and dreams!
Photos by Flytographer, Hawaii
Backroads: Slovenia and Croatia
BACKROADS provides a wonderful opportunity to connect with destinations in style and comfort by experiencing much of the journey by bike or on foot. I had the great pleasure of leaving some footprints in the towns and countryside of Slovenia and Croatia on a recent BACKROADS hiking trip.
Footprints…
There is no more intimate way for us to leave our personal stamp on the Earth than by walking a pathway. BACKROADS provides a wonderful opportunity to connect with destinations in style and comfort by experiencing much of the journey by bike or on foot. I had the great pleasure of leaving some footprints in the towns and countryside of Slovenia and Croatia on a recent BACKROADS hiking trip.
Slovenia, a small country that was at one time part of the now dissolved Yugoslavia, is not the most accessible of destinations. But some isolation may indeed be what keeps it special. Its capital city Ljubljana reminded me in flashes of college days spent abroad in Salzburg, Austria. No surprise really since Austria rests on the other side of the Julian Alps—both sides resplendent with mountain lakes and scenery and lovely villages. There are also corners of Slovenia with grape vines and hill towns that could be featured by the Tourist Boards of Tuscany. Slovenian wines are delicious and the cuisine is fresh tasting and locally sourced—truly farm to table. In spite of all the exercise on this trip I did not lose a single pound!
Watch for this small country now facing the wave of tourism that has already swept through Croatia to be named on all the newest bucket lists. Slovenia’s motto: Green. Active. Healthy. Their enthusiasm for a clean, sustainable environment is everywhere. I fell in love with this place and cannot wait to leave more footprints in this beautiful land again one day!
Croatia still remains the more famous neighbor and attracts travelers with its spectacular coastline. They also pour some very decent wines here and of course serve some of the freshest seafood. Both countries have their share of Roman ruins which can easily be explored without the crowds. Trust me—the crowds are coming. Plan your trip to this spot on the globe sooner rather than later.
I cannot encourage you enough to put on some hiking boots and take a look at the journeys that BACKROADS offers. The guides are spirited and fun-loving, the accommodations are upscale, yet authentic, and long walks provide great opportunities for warm camaraderie and conversation. Genuine interaction. Cherished memories. Don’t miss out.
Spirits of the Castle
The 2017 Cadence Elite team was hosted this year in some extraordinary historic locales in Ireland and London. While fierce arguments could be waged on which of these provided the finest experiences, the fondest for me was perhaps Ashford Castle. We also visited The K Club, The Dorchester Hotel, 45 Park Lane, and Coworth Park.
The world is woven by many ancient pathways that have been carved into the historic memory of human civilizations by the countless footprints of those who walked before us. We all marvel at historic sites and ruins—the evolution of human culture and myriad patterns of life on Earth is fascinating. We all participate in this process every day, the past becoming the present for each one of us in every moment. We each leave our own individual stamp on time and place as time passes.
The 2017 Cadence Elite team was hosted this year in some extraordinary historic locales in Ireland and London. While fierce arguments could be waged on which of these provided the finest experiences, the fondest for me was perhaps Ashford Castle. Famous in an earlier era for the Guinness family, the culture and history of an establishment doesn’t get much richer!
Within the past year, the castle and estate grounds have been meticulously restored by the owners of Red Carnation Hotels. The final result is a true gem--a classic property emerging as if frozen in time but benefiting from updates that will satisfy any 21st Century traveler who has the good fortune of residing there for a couple memorable days and nights.
Nature and history connected for me on one fine clear winter morning on castle grounds when we participated in a “Hawk Walk”. Ashford maintains a “School of Falconry”—the oldest in Ireland. Records indicate that raptors have been used by humans to assist in hunts in China and the Far East since 2,000 BC. Falconry reached its highest level in the British Isles in the 16th Century.
The birds that interact with guests at Ashford Castle are Harris Hawks, a species found in the Southwestern USA. The creatures are spectacular—bright-eyed, keenly alert and amazingly well-trained. They follow and in turn lead their human companions through the estate woodlands during this experience. Everyone gets an opportunity to have the hawk land and take off from a gloved arm, bringing you eyeball to eyeball with an extraordinary feathered spirit.
Speaking of spirits, one cannot leave Ashford Castle without sipping some famous Irish whiskey in the Prince of Wales Bar. Given the guest list of this hotel, the room oozes historical presence, namesake for the Prince of Wales himself who used the space privately during his visit in 1905.
If hawks and whiskey aren’t at the top of your list, guests of the castle can participate in fine dining at George V restaurant, ride horses or bicycles, play golf or billiards, fish for salmon, enjoy archery or clay pigeon shooting or lounge in the new state of the art spa. This is a world that offers a perfect blend of past and present—an opportunity to feel like royalty within the glowing bubble of Ashford Castle. Cheers!
Click below to view the properties we visited during our trip - please contact me to hear about my experiences!
Ashford Castle - Located in County Mayo, Ireland
K Club - Located in Kildare, Ireland
The Dorchester Hotel - Located in London, England
45 Park Lane - Located in London, England
Coworth Park - Located in Ascot, England
Sea of Cortez - the Aquarium of the World
I recently had the pleasure of escaping my normal routines into some remote corners of the Sea of Cortez. A small expedition ship in the fleet of UnCruise Adventures was my home for this 7 night journey.
There have been many times over the years that I wished I had journaled about my favorite travel experiences, if only to reinforce my memories and impressions while they were fresh. Today the effects of globalization are impacting nearly every corner of the planet and my experiences of some of the world's untouched locales are ones I never want to forget.
While it is tough to see some of my favorite destinations changing with crowds, resorts and trinket shops, the positive spin is that many of the world’s most remote spaces are developing more sophisticated infrastructure that is luring more and more travelers to revel in discovery. As you may be learning, I am a big advocate of devoting some of your valuable time and resources to exploring these wild and untouched lands—better sooner rather than later. To witness for yourself the joy of walking on new trails, viewing new horizons and experiencing worlds that may be vastly different from the one you normally inhabit.
I just had the pleasure last month of escaping my normal routines into some remote corners of the Sea of Cortez. A small expedition ship in the fleet of UnCruise Adventures was my home for this 7 night journey. The young energetic crew that included naturalists and a very talented chef could not have been better hosts. By day we hiked into arroyos and onto ridgelines, kayaked and paddleboarded into brilliant blue inlets and lagoons, and wandered lovely deserted beaches. By night we were entertained by good lectures, good conversation and always took a few minutes to stand in awe under a spectacular star-filled night sky.
For those who visit Baja California during the months of January, February and March there is an extraordinary opportunity to spend several precious hours in the company of gray whales who traverse the entire coastline of North America to gather in several special bays along the Pacific Coast. Here they will gather to breed and to nurture their calves. These gentle creatures who only decades ago were nearly driven to annihilation by the whaling industry now peacefully tolerate human visitors. Some of the marine giants even choose to pass by the pangas in such proximity that their gestures seem to invite human touch. What an amazing interaction between species!
Another highlight of our week was the arrival of the mobula rays to the bay where our ship was anchored. A number of them joined us during our snorkeling excursion with the sea lions and hundreds more surrounded the vessel, jumping and circling for several hours. When crew members swamp the decks, cameras in hand, you know the event is both unusual and extraordinary!
Clearly, the week brought some nice surprises, some physical exertion, some yoga, some reading, quiet reflection and wonderful immersion in a natural environment of stark desert vistas and blue ocean waters rich in varied marine life. All valuable opportunities to be engaged in each changing moment—moment by moment.